Football supporters often judge a kit in seconds.
Like it or hate it, the verdict is usually delivered long before anyone considers the years of planning, negotiations and compromises that go into creating a modern football shirt.
Those hidden stories were brought to light during a live stream on the DADS OUR JOB YouTube channel, hosted by lifelong West Ham supporter and former West Ham World contributor Adam Leatherbarrow.
Adam sat down with former Umbro designer Bradley Edwards, who worked on a number of West Ham United kits during his time in the industry and now runs his own design agency, BE Creative.
The discussion provided a rare behind-the-scenes insight into how football kits are created, the commercial pressures that influence design decisions and some of the fascinating stories behind shirts that many West Ham supporters will know and remember.
What emerged was a story of tradition versus commercial ambition, sponsor influence, internal debate and the unexpected people who helped shape the final product.
You can watch the full interview with Bradley Edwards below…
More Than Just Designing a Shirt
One of the biggest takeaways from the conversation was just how many stakeholders are involved in the process.
While supporters often imagine a designer sketching ideas before presenting a finished concept, the reality is far more complicated. Manufacturers, club executives, commercial departments, retailers and sponsors all have a say before a shirt ever reaches production.
Every detail is scrutinised, from collar styles and colour shades through to how a sponsor’s logo sits on the chest.
According to Edwards, some of the most challenging aspects of the role had little to do with creativity and everything to do with balancing competing interests.
Karen Brady’s Influence on West Ham’s Brand
Perhaps the most revealing discussion centred around West Ham’s commercial strategy during the period.
Edwards explained that vice-chair Karen Brady was heavily invested in the club’s wider branding and commercial identity and was keen to ensure West Ham projected a modern image that could appeal beyond its traditional fanbase.
One notable example discussed was a desire to move away from some of the club’s more traditional visual cues in favour of a cleaner and more commercially marketable image.
This included a preference towards all-claret looks at certain points, with the thinking centred on creating a stronger, more distinctive and contemporary brand identity.
While traditionalists often favoured classic claret shirts with blue sleeves and strong references to historic West Ham sides, the club’s commercial leadership was increasingly considering how the club would be perceived in an increasingly global football marketplace.
The interview highlighted the constant balancing act between respecting heritage and building a modern football brand.
The Betway Challenge
Another fascinating revelation involved shirt sponsorship and the influence sponsors can have over the final design.
Edwards revealed that Betway became one of the biggest considerations during the design process, with the sponsor understandably keen to protect the visibility and integrity of its logo.
As a result, several potentially iconic design concepts either had to be modified or discarded because they conflicted with sponsorship requirements.
It was a reminder that modern football shirts are no longer just sporting garments but major commercial assets, with sponsors playing a significant role in determining what ultimately reaches supporters.
The Stories Hidden Within the Designs
One of the most enjoyable parts of the discussion was hearing about the amount of thought that goes into even the smallest details.
Historical references, nods to famous West Ham teams, supporter culture and club heritage all played a role in shaping concepts.
Edwards described how some of the most successful shirts often came from finding subtle ways to tell a story rather than simply recreating retro designs.
Many of the details supporters appreciated most were often the result of countless conversations and revisions behind the scenes.
The Unexpected Importance of a Kitman
One of the standout stories from the interview involved something many supporters take for granted: white socks.
For generations, white socks have formed part of some of West Ham’s most iconic kit combinations, but their inclusion was not always guaranteed.
Edwards recalled how a club kitman became a key voice during discussions, passionately arguing for the importance of white socks as part of West Ham’s identity.
His intervention ultimately helped influence the final design direction, demonstrating how people outside the boardroom can sometimes have a major impact on a club’s visual identity.
Favourite Designs, Near Misses and the Future
The interview also covered Edwards’ favourite West Ham designs, concepts that never made it beyond the drawing board and the realities of working within commercial restrictions.
Looking ahead, he also shared his thoughts on West Ham’s new partnership with New Balance, suggesting the deal presents an opportunity to strengthen the club’s international profile through a manufacturer with growing global reach and a willingness to create distinctive club identities.
While supporters will ultimately judge the shirts themselves, Edwards believes the partnership could help enhance West Ham’s visibility in important overseas markets while offering fresh creative possibilities.
The Balancing Act Behind Every Kit
Perhaps the biggest lesson from the discussion was that football kit design is rarely about producing a designer’s ideal vision.
Instead, every shirt represents a compromise between heritage, supporter expectations, sponsor demands, commercial objectives and manufacturing realities.
As Leatherbarrow’s conversation with Edwards demonstrated, some of the most important decisions behind a football kit are often made far away from the design studio.
And sometimes, the difference between an iconic shirt and one that never sees the light of day comes down to a sponsor, a boardroom discussion – or even a determined kitman fighting for a pair of white socks.
